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Viti-CULTURE

The “Winemaker’s Grape,” Deserves Your Attention

by W.S. Lyon Bruce Neyers sat at one end of a long table, learning French verbs from a soft-spoken farmer named Marius Gentaz. They were sharing a plate of veal chops and drinking with about a dozen others at Le Beau Rivage, in Condrieu, working their way through a few bottles of white wine before venturing on to headier reds. The Rhône River—drawing glacier melt from the Swiss…

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